How do you tune a tiple? A step-by-step guide to its 12 strings
Twelve strings, four courses and some tuned an octave apart: here's how to tune a tiple with a tuner and by ear, without getting tangled up in the tuning pegs or snapping a string.
The tiple uses the same note names as the guitar's four highest strings: D, G, B and E (D, G, B, E), from the fourth course to the first. Each course has three strings. In the first (E), all three sound in unison; in the most common setup, the thicker middle string of each of the other three courses sounds an octave below the two outer strings.
The safest way to tune it is to set one reference string per course with a tuner, then match the others by ear. String sets vary, so check with your teacher which strings are tuned in octaves on your tiple before increasing tension.
In short
- The tiple's four courses are tuned to D, G, B and E, like guitar strings 4 through 1.
- The first course (E) has all three strings in unison; in the others, the middle string usually sounds an octave lower.
- A tuner shows the note name, but not always the octave: identify each string by its thickness.
- Tune one string at a time, always bringing it up to pitch, and make at least two complete passes.
- Never raise a thick string to the pitch of the thin ones: the tension can break it or strain the bridge.
Tiple tuning, course by course
The tiple's 12 metal strings are grouped into four courses of three. They're numbered as on a guitar: the first course is the highest-pitched and closest to the floor when you play. Many tiple players call tuning “temple.”
| Course | Note | Guitar string with the same note name | How its three strings sound |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4th (lowest) | D major (D) | 4th string | Two matching outer strings; the middle string an octave lower |
| 3rd | G major (G) | 3rd string | Two matching outer strings; the middle string an octave lower |
| 2nd | B (B) | 2nd string | Two matching outer strings; the middle string an octave lower |
| 1st (highest) | E major (E) | 1st string | All three in unison |
Some tiples, especially older instruments or those with special string sets, differ in which string is tuned in an octave or where it sits in the course. Thickness is a useful clue: the wound string, wrapped in wire, is usually the one tuned an octave lower. If you're unsure about your instrument's setup, ask your teacher before tightening anything.
What you need before starting
- A chromatic tuner that recognizes any note. You can use the website's tiple tuner, which distinguishes strings in different octaves, a clip-on tuner or an app.
- A quiet place, especially if you're using a phone or computer microphone.
- Know which tuning machine controls each string. There are 12; trace each string with your finger from the bridge to its tuning machine before turning anything.
- Optional: a tuned guitar to give you the reference notes D, G, B and E on its first four strings.
Remember that many tuners show only the note name. To them, the middle string in the B course is also “B,” even though it sounds an octave lower. The tuner tells you whether the pitch is centered, but you need to know which string you're tuning.
Step by step with a tuner
- Relax your left hand and gently rest your fingers on the strings you're not tuning to stop them vibrating. Clip-on tuners pick up vibrations from the whole instrument.
- Start with the first course (E). Pluck just one string and turn its tuning machine until the tuner shows E centered.
- Tune the other two strings in the first course one at a time until all three match.
- Move to the second course (B). Tune one outer string first, then the other, and finally the middle string, which should read B an octave lower.
- Repeat the process for the third course (G) and fourth (D).
- Make a second complete pass. Twelve metal strings add up to a lot of tension: tuning one course shifts the others slightly.
- Play a chord you know and listen. If something sounds harsh or clashes, find the out-of-tune string by playing each course separately.
A time-saving habit: always approach the note from below. If you overshoot, lower the pitch a little below the target and come back up. This helps the string settle and stay in tune longer.
How to tune by ear
Within each course: beats
When two strings sound almost the same but not quite, you hear a pulsing “wah-wah-wah” that gets faster the farther apart they are. As you match them, the pulse slows until it disappears. Something similar happens with octaves: when tuned well, the low and high strings blend into one richer sound. Tune each course this way, using the string you already set with the tuner as your reference.
Between courses: reference frets
Since the tiple uses the same intervals as the guitar's first four strings, you can check each course against the next:
| Fret | At fret | Should match |
|---|---|---|
| 4th course (D) | 5 | Open 3rd course (G) |
| 3rd course (G) | 4 | Open 2nd course (B) |
| 2nd course (B) | 5 | Open 1st course (E) |
Because some strings are tuned in octaves, a thin and a thick string may match in note name but not in pitch height. What matters is that they sound like the same note, without pulsing. If you'd rather use a guitar as your reference, tune it first with the guitar tuner and use strings 4 through 1.
Common mistakes (and how to avoid breaking a string)
| Error | What happens | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Raising the middle string to the pitch of the outer strings | Excessive tension: it can break or strain the bridge | Remember that it's usually an octave lower; if it feels extremely tight, stop |
| Turning the wrong tuning machine | You detune another string or tighten it too much | Trace the string to its tuning machine before turning it |
| Tuning with several strings ringing | The tuner gets confused and jumps between readings | Mute the strings you're not tuning with your hand |
| Making only one pass | The tiple goes out of tune within minutes | Make two or three complete passes |
| Rushing through tuning new strings | They don't stay in tune | Retune them several times over the first few days |
| Tuning right after arriving from a different climate | It goes out of tune as you play | Let the tiple acclimate in its case for a few minutes |
How often to tune and when to suspect the strings
Tune every time you play and before every lesson, whether in person or online. Changes in temperature and humidity, common when traveling from Bogotá's cold weather to warmer regions, can shift tuning from one day to the next.
If your tiple no longer stays in tune, the strings sound dull, look rusty or the octaves never quite match, it's probably time to replace them. If the tuner shows the open strings in tune but chords sound out of tune at higher frets, a setup issue may need a luthier's attention. Read more in our guide to caring for a tiple and bandola. In tiple lessons, tuning with your teacher the first few times is the quickest way to train your ear to recognize a well-tuned course.
Frequently asked questions
Can I tune a tiple using a tuner's guitar mode?
Chromatic mode is better. Guitar modes expect the guitar's six strings in their usual octaves, while chromatic mode recognizes any note. That way, you can clearly see whether each string is D, G, B or E.
Why does my tiple go out of tune so quickly?
The most common causes are new strings still stretching, climate changes, loose tuning machines or approaching the note from above. If none of these explains the problem, have it checked.
How long does it take to tune a tiple?
At first, 10 to 15 minutes is not unusual: there are 12 strings, and you need to find each tuning machine. With practice, and if the tiple is well maintained, a few minutes before playing is enough.
Are the tiple and bandola tuned the same way?
No. The bandola andina has a different number of courses and its own tuning. If you play both instruments, your teacher will explain the tuning of each.
Sources
We checked the facts in this article against these sources on October 22, 2026.